Uncorked (2020) ***1/2

 

First things first: This is NOT related to the 2009 Hallmark movie of the same name. In a weird convergence, though, the main character of that Hallmark movie is named Johnetta Prentiss, while the writer and director of this 2020 film is Prentice Penny. Cue eerie music!

Mamoudou Athie plays Elijah, a young man whose family owns a successful barbecue restaurant in Memphis. This is one of those places where you can smell the smoke coming from the smoker out back, and the lunchtime line snakes out the door. Elijah's grandfather started the place, his father kept it going, and Elijah is expected to take over some day. Elijah, though, has an intense interest in wine and dreams of becoming a sommelier. Over his father's objections and despite a lack of funds, he signs up for Master Sommelier training, a notoriously difficult course of study.

It's a basic and timeworn story, and you can see the major plot points coming a mile away. Somehow, none of that matters. The easy, naturalistic acting and unpretentious dialogue simply carry you through this sweet, satisfying film. Niecy Nash and Courtney B. Vance are particularly good as Elijah's parents.

I recently re-watched the movie “Easy A,” and the dialogue in that movie just crackles. Everyone is so glib, so ready to trade witty repartee or make a pithy observation. It's fun, but no one I know in real life is close to being that verbally adroit. Hell, most people can barely string together two declarative sentences, let alone engage in banter or discuss their inner life. This is especially true for men, and that's how it is for Elijah and his father. They can talk about something that interests them, but when it comes to discussing their relationship or feelings, they just shut down. This depiction of male interactions really rang true, and the actors play it well. The actual dialogue in the film feels like the way real people talk to each other.

I also liked that the film doesn't beat us over the head with the fact that Elijah, who is from a black, working-class family, is trying to break into a snooty, white profession. I'm sure the character will face some issues of classism and racism in his chosen field, but “Uncorked” is about Elijah's individual identity, not identity politics.

It's not often that a movie puts together two of my favorite things, but “Uncorked” nails it with its combination of BBQ and wine. Even as the story unfolded, I was constantly distracted by the delicious-looking food and libations flashing across the screen. In addition to being a heartfelt story about family and coming of age, this is truly porn for the palate.

3.5 stars out of 5