For a weekly publication like Sports
Illustrated, the perpetual problem was producing enough content to
fill a magazine week in and week out. (They now only publish
monthly.) This is especially true in late winter, after the Super
Bowl, a slow time for the big, popular sports. In 1964, editor Andre
Laguerre came up with a brilliant way to help fill in the slow time:
a swimsuit issue. He tapped fashion editor Jule Campbell to produce
the new issue. It would prove to be one of the most profitable
decisions in publishing history. Campbell stayed on as editor of the
Swimsuit Issue for 32 years, turning it into a juggernaut that would
produce the majority of the profits for the magazine.
In “Beyond the Gaze,” Campbell's
daughter-in-law, Jill Campbell, does a deep dive into the history of
the Swimsuit Issue, interviewing models, photographers, editors, and
Jule herself, as well as some feminist critics. I saw the documentary
at a film festival, and I got that usual film festival glow. By the
time we had watched the film and the Q&A with Jill Campbell, I
left feeling like I had just seen the best film ever. After some
time, I cooled on it just a little, but it is still well worth
watching.
There are really 2 stories in this
documentary. One is about the magazine and the business empire it
spawned. The issue made stars out of models like Elle McPherson, and
the interviews with these women are enlightening. We learn how
fraught modeling can be, working nearly naked with male photographers
and directors, who are sometimes inclined to take advantage of the
situation. For the Swimsuit Issue, Jule was always there directing
the shoots and then selecting the photos, weeding out the more
lascivious shots and ensuring that only the more tasteful pics made
it into the magazine. These portions of the film are copiously filled
with footage of the photo shoots, so it's pretty easy on the eyes.
Then there are the critics,
representing the usual bizarre alliance between man-hating feminists
and the religious right. The one thing they both hate is pictures of
beautiful, scantily-clad women. Probably my only real criticism of
the documentary is that Ms. Campbell gives these critics more air
time than is really needed. I think it's right that she includes
their voices, as they do make some valid points, for what they are
worth. The magazine does objectify women. It also objectifies women
as soft, feminine, and vulnerable in a magazine that is otherwise
supposed to be about athletics. Points taken. By the end, this film
keeps circling back to these same critics restating the same points.
She could have cut their screen time by half without losing anything
useful.
The best documentaries blend a
personal story with a big-picture theme, and Jill Campbell does that
here. The second story in this film is about Jule Campbell at the end
of a long, productive life, being cared for by family and developing
symptoms of dementia. Through all this, it's gratifying watching her
re-visit and discuss her life's work and catch up with several of the
models she worked with over the years. There wasn't a dry eye in the
theater by the closing credits.
4 stars out of 5